[Thomas Waters. R.M., to his wife, Elizabeth]
Addressed to Mrs Waters, 21 Mulgrave Place, Woolwich, Kent
3 H.M.S. Barham Malta 3rd January 1832
My Dearest Love
In my last I told you I was much struck with the extraordinary grandeur of Valletta (the capital) and its neighbourhood, since that I have taken a walk or two into the country; I should say that Malta has past it’s high day of grandeur for some time; it has been a most magnificent place, many of the villages at a short distance appear like Citys in miniature from their superb buildings, but they have but few inhabitants and those generally of the poorest, the best houses almost empty, some of the churches are grand and the insides splendidly ornamented, they are well attended twice a day by devoted bowing to the cross, crossing themselves, mumbling their prayers, counting their beads, confessing themselves to their priests, paying their adorations to the virgin Mary and other saints, kneeling on the bare marble floor or steps, candles and oil continually burning; while some of the priesthood were going through various ceremonys of bowing, and saying and singing something to each other, changing sides, burning incense and smoking each other, the younger ones, mere children, assisting in the rites, were occasionally joking and making fun of each other; December seems to be gala time with them, the afternoon of the 8th they paraded through the streets, bearing various symbols, with music playing banners flying, wax candles innumerable burning, some of them, as tall as those who carried them, with four wicks and as large nearly as my wrist, in the midst were several stout fellows who seemed staggering under the weight of an image of a woman gaudily dressed- Living is cheap, a beggar is more thankful for a grain, which is but the third part of a farthing, than he would be in England for a halfpenny; washing is eighteen pence per Dozen, mending included, some will wash for a shilling and fetch and bring the linen back- This is the first time I ever saw a horse kneading bread; at the Navy biscuit bakery the dough is put into a round wooden trough where a wooden wheel loaded between the spokes, with five hundred weight of lead is worked round upon it by a horse- 13th We sailed having Sir Walter with his son and daughter on board- 16th Had an interesting view of Aetna, distant about 30 miles, snow on the top of the mountain was perceptible, and smoke was seen issuing,- at night we saw Stromboli, burning furiously- 17th We arrived at the beautiful Bay of Naples, said to be the finest in Europe and were placed under quarantine, in entering the Bay, the magnificent City of Naples is on the left, spreading down to the water’s edge, from the hills above; on the right is Vesuvius the foot of which reaches, also, to the water; with buildings of all sorts extending from one point of the entrance of the bay round to the other point; Vesuvius was continually emitting a great quantity of smoke, and occasionally at night flame, at times fierce. 24th admitted to Pratique 26th I was on shore, but it being the only time, of course, I cannot be a judge of the advantages or defects of such an extensive city as Naples, but I think there is much grandeur, much want of cleanliness, and what we would call comfort; and some want of taste among the English families of distinction and fortune who reside there, excepting those whose residence is but for a short time. 25th and 26th saw the lava pouring down one of the ravines of Vesuvius in a stream of fire; it is daily expected there will be a grand eruption, as the crater is full of lava, the foot of the mountain is, across the water, about seven miles from Naples- 27th sailed, leaving Sir Walter much improved in health and family at Naples 3rd January 1832 arrived at Malta, I have just received your letters of the 29th Oct. and 25 Nov. but not the children’s you mention. Wishing you and children a happy new year with many returns; I remain, with love to them, My Dearest Wife yours most affectionately
Thos. Waters