[Thomas Waters to his parents]
[original: envelope missing]
Ship “Bethiah Jewett”
Chinchas [Chincha Islands]
May 6th 1860
Dear Father & Mother
I am still at the Chinchas but expect to sail about the 15th for Callao where the ship will be detained about two days or less and then hurrah for home again, not exactly home neither but at any rate we will be homeward bound which Papa knows well brings pleasant sensations. There is every appearance here in Peru of another revolution in the miserable government, their men of war are here at the Chinchas with steam up constantly expecting a break out and ready to join the side that offers the highest bid. We have had several very severe earthquakes shook the ship fearfully and tumbled some of the cliffs on the islands down, and I hear that in Lima the inhabitants are camp’d in the open square as all their houses have been more or less damaged, and the hotel where Amy and I stayed last voyage is badly damaged and the shocks are still felt, consequently the people are expecting more damage and throng their churches where the priests gather a rich harvest. We have had a long detention here but I expected it so am not disappointed, but Amy promised me plenty of letters and newspapers but the mails are so very irregular and uncertain and the Peruvian authorities are so remiss that I only get about half of Amy’s letters and as yet have not received one newspaper which Amy writes me she posts regularly, the last two mails here have been lost or stolen so we have received no letters lately. I would like to hear from my little girls, I hope they still continue in health. I think if I get to England before I go round Cape Horn again that I will take Lizzie and Mary a trip to improve their constitutions.
We are bound to Hampton Roads, Virginia, United States for orders, where we will only stay about 24 hours to get instructions where the ship is to proceed to to discharge cargo. I expect to be there about the 15th Aug so if you write to me please write soon enough for the letter to be there before I arrive. The direction is to me Ship “Bethiah Jewett” care of Messrs Hardy & Brother – Norfolk – Virginia – U.S. you must be particular about the name of the ship otherwise the letter will not reach me.
I went out sea lion hunting with some American Captains a few days ago and got a good ducking and lost my gun and very near lost myself, we got too near the rocks and the surf capsized the boat and I had to practise my swimming rather more than was pleasant. That is the only accident I have met with hunting and I have been out a good many times and only accompanied that hunting party after a good deal of pressing from the Americans who wanted me to pilot them as I am pretty well experienced and never before had a mishap, but you know familiarity with danger breeds contempt for it and so it proved for I had been so used to going close to the surf that I finally went too close, tho a little carelessness on the part of one of the crew hastened the event. When I was here some time ago seven men were drowned in the surf while out hunting, indeed accidents are occuring almost daily, but fools learn by experience so I will take more care next time.
We have had several fine balls in the fleet lately to all of which I went and enjoyed them much. I wish Amy was with me because I know she would have been much pleased. Please excuse all my mistakes in orthography, it is not from want of schooling but from a defective memory agravated by the bad fever I caught in Cuba and if I look in the dictionary for every word I would have to write a very short letter as I soon lose patience tho’ I have little to lose, I can remember things that happened 25 years ago better than quite recent events. I hope Ben’s business still improves and that Lizz’s school increases.
Do my little girls remember me? perhaps Lizzie may because I used to play with her a good deal but I expect May has a very dim idea of her father, well some of these days I hope to live among my family ashore. Callao May 20th We arrived here on the 18th and I certainly expected to find some letters from home but I was disappointed tho I received a letter from the owner saying that Mrs Waters was well etc etc
Lima has had quite a severe shaking and there has been two or three shakes since I arrived here but the city is not hurt so much as I expected, which the pious Peruvians attribute to the intervention of their priests who form bare footed processions and with lighted tapers and a few wooden saints carried on their shoulders walk the streets day and nights. The last severe earthquake here the sea rushed in and overwhelmed Callao, the dreary ruins of which reach down to the waters edge and a great part is still fathoms under the sea but the part that is above water presents a most horrible aspect on account of the immense amount of human remains scattered and in large heaps among the ruins. It seems as if the crowded churches had tumbled down on the worshipers and all had perished and so they remain to this day their broken bones bleaching in the broken churches and the whole presents (tho within the length of your garden from the crowded new Callao) a complete picture of desolation and death, nothing green grows over the place except here and there a running weed and the old church vaults form capital retreats for the huge rats that infest the ruins.
The priests have brought to Callao from Lima a gaudy wooden saint which they have placed near the waters edge on the sea beach and it has gain’d immense popularity and, what I expect the priests like better, many costly offerings have been made to it for the supposed intercession in saving New Callao from being overwhelmed. However the people dont seem to care much for they throng the theatre and race course and Sunday is a favourite day for bull fighting, there is to be a grand one to day (Sunday) to which my agent has strongly invited me to go to as he has reserved a seat in his private box for me but I never leave my ship on Sunday except on very urgent and extremely rare cases.
I think I told Lizzie in my last letter that I would send her some money the first opportunity. I expect Liz thinks I am very remiss about it but it is partly her fault and my procrastination, as I have been disappointed twice in not sailing as I fully expected to England but now I will wait no longer than the first opportunity and will for the future keep ahead of the liabilities. I expect Liz has written to Amy for me but I have received no letters now for many mails from her and as we sail tomorrow I dont expect to hear from home ’till the next port. Amy and I last voyage collected quite a lot of curiosities, petrifications, rough coral, incrustations and other heavy things (expecting to go to England) for Liz to adorn her garden walks or make a grotto with but I have been so disappointed that I have thrown them overboard as they cumbered the cabin too much and except as curiosities they were of no value but of great weight and bulk. We got quite a variety of calabashes [gourds from the calabash tree, possibly made into containers] most of which are still on board and if we get to England soon Liz may probably get them. Amy and I were calculating to surprise Liz with our collection for her and we agreed not to mention about it in any of our letters but it is so very uncertain when the ship may go again to England that I had to throw the heavy things overboard.
Remember me kindly very kindly to John Harris who I hope is in good health and spirits. I hope Ben and all at home are in good health etc
I remain
Your affectionate son
Thomas Waters
Mama must give little Lizzie and May twenty kisses for me how I wish I could kiss them myself